Old Dhaka is a treasure trove of historical heritage and delicious food and my endeavour to take the readers through the off the beaten culinary roads continues with shabby tea stalls and cheap street food that each have their own uniqueness and history.
Talking about ‘old’, I found “Samad-er Hotel,” a treasure in the guise of a restaurant in terms of its age.
The building it’s situated in is more than 200 years old and the place is shabby and dingy with minimal care for presentation, so much so, there is not enough room for accommodation.
The hotel opens for breakfast and runs till about 9 pm. The regular fried food found here isn’t extraordinary and neither is the hospitality. In fact, the owner seems to be indifferent towards the guests; perhaps, because he doesn’t lack regular eaters to this place. The regulars come back twice every single day! The shop has no signboard, but the tiny entrance is what attracts the visitors here. Needless to say, the price is surprisingly economic!
If you make your way to Lalbagh Road, a little ahead of the Chhoto Bhat Mosque, is “Mama Chotpoti House” run by Mr Abdur Rashid since last 38 years. The place sells what they call ‘doi fuchka’ which is just yoghurt mixed with tamarind salsa.
You won’t find the traditional fuchka with natural yogurt here as the locals aren’t willing to pay the price for that. Per plate of fuchka is Tk 20 and most people prefer take-out rather than eat at the stall. However, if you do wish to sit there and eat, the stall is of very good quality in terms of taste, environment & service.
If you are craving Biriyani, then go to Bottola and walk towards Chhapra mosque. On the right there is “Lal Miar Shahi Biriyani House”. The shop is as old as Bangladesh itself.
The owner Lal Mia started it in 1971 and it has been running regularly since then. I highly recommend the Biriyani, Moghlai Paratha and Chicken Jhal Fry. And if you want to sample some Beef Kacchi Biriyani, it’s best to visit the place between 12 pm to 2 pm.
Moving towards the Chhapra mosque, right at the corner there is a mobile van that sells mixed puffed rice. Usually found from dusk till 10 pm, this van is always crowded and will surely give the fan of this food a new taste.
If you are a fast food fan but short on money, make your way to a little ahead to ‘Burger Hut’ selling chicken & beef burger at 50 taka each and of recommendable taste.
At the end of the mosque, there is “Mona Bhai-er Cha-er Dokan”. After returning from abroad to fight unemployment, Mona bhai started this tea and coffee stall selling of varieties types of the beverages starting from Tk 6 to Tk 10 per cup. I myself found neither the environment nor the taste recommendable. However, for its location the place is always highly crowded starting from noon till midnight.
It’s impossible to limit Old Dhaka to a number of articles but stay tuned for an up close and personal look at the
Azimpur Daira Sharif and Khan Mohammad Masjid.
Photographs: Sohelee Tahmina
