Exploring Old Dhaka: Nawabganj Bazar Road trip continued

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Sohelee Tahmina
Published : 18:40, Mar 29, 2019 | Updated : 18:52, Mar 29, 2019

Md Shakil’s Kebab joint running since 1981Our beloved Dhaka is more than 400 years old with parts of history woven into our present and future. These histories have deep influence at some places and such part of this city is Old Dhaka that’s teeming with history, heritage, pride and honour.

People in our country are not very familiar with Old Dhaka; in fact, its sphere is limited to a few famous historical establishments and the restaurants which got fame for both quality and social media promotions.

Old Dhaka is famous for both its historical heritage as well as food. Besides Biriyani and branded restaurants, the mesmerizing food scene is visible at every nook and cranny of this part of the city and no writing can do justice to it.

Md Shakil’s Kebab joint running since 1981Nababganj Bazaar Road is home one of the most famous biriyani spots around the city- Jamidari Bhoj. The place has made its mark among food lovers with its quality of food and service, price and social media. Therefore, the only review that this place needs is that - it’s a must-try.

There are few other biriyani spots selling biriyani around this place. Naturally, the prices of food at those restaurants are a bit lower than the branded ones. However, these spots don’t really lag behind in terms of quantity and taste. One can have their fill of biriyani, tehari, pulao with their favourite meat- chicken, beef and mutton. There are also plain rice and other meat dishes available in these eateries.

The price for half a packet/plate is somewhere around Tk 150 for chicken pulao, Tk 170 for beef kacchi and Tk 200 for mutton kacchi.

Nababganj Bazaar Road is home to one of the best biriyani shops around the areaThe most popular item sold in these biriyani places is the whole roasted chicken served with a bowl of plain pulao or biriyani. The mouthwatering dish meant for three people to devour can easily serve four.

This particular dish is priced at Tk 380 per bowl and although it’s available everyday, it is much wiser to make a reservation beforehand given how popular it is.

It’s difficult to imagine Old Dhaka with its traditional kebabs. For me there are three shops on Nawabganj Road that sells mouthwatering and melting soft kebabs.

Chan Mia’s kebab jointTake the exact opposite road of the Nababganj Boro Masjid and a little ahead on your left is Md Shakil’s Kebab joint running since 1981. Md Shakil has been making chicken shikh kebab following the same recipe throughout the last 38 years. He opens shops in the evening and sells these delicious kebabs at Tk 25 per stick till 10 pm.

A little before the main bazaar on this road, one will find Chan Mia’s kebab joint, running since the last 10 years from 4 pm till 1 am.

Delicious Old Dhaka Bakarkhani with a cup of milk-tea at Md Abed Rutiwala's joint.Just a few steps from this shop, at the beginning of an alley is Bashir Mia’s kebab joint, running since the last 32 years and counting, from evening till 10 pm. Chan Mia is Bashir Mia’s son-in-law and both sell beef and chicken kebab at Tk 50 and Tk 20 per stick respectively. Only at Chan Mia’s one can find liver kebab at 20 tk per stick.

Another very important item and unique food that will instantly make you think about Old Dhaka is the Bakarkhani. The Bakarkhani is a kind of bread made by kneading together flour, butter, salt and water and has a biscuit-like texture and hard crust. You can find both sweet and savoury flavours that you can enjoy with a cup of hot milk-tea.

Delicious Old Dhaka Bakarkhani at Md Abed Rutiwala's joint.Every alley of Old Dhaka has at least one stall making and selling bakarkhani. Right before Bashir Mia’s kebab joint, is the bakarkhani stall established by Md Abed Rutiwala more than 150 years back in the British era. Running by Mr Azgarh, under the observation of the third generation of Mr Rutiwala, this stall is unique from the other ones for having its very own tea spot. So, one doesn’t have to fetch tea from another stall to enjoy the classic bakarkhani-tea combination.


Md Atikullah's hot and spicy cheka puriIn an almost hidden corner of an alley after the main bazaar, one can spot a 30 years old spot selling hot and spicy cheka puri at Tk 5 per piece. This business has been running in the same spot following the same recipe started my Md Atikullah and now run by his apprentice Md Ibrahim.

Stay tuned for a trip around Dhakeshwari temple, Lalbagh Fort surrounding areas next!

Photographs: Sohelee Tahmina

Read more on the Exploring Old Dhaka series:

Exploring Old Dhaka: Tea and chitchat in Lalbagh

Exploring Old Dhaka: Street food and tea

Exploring Old Dhaka: Khan Mohammad Mirza Mosque and Azimpur Daira Sharif

Exploring Old Dhaka: Journey of Nababganj Bazaar Road-1

 

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