Our beloved Dhaka is more than 400 years old with parts of history woven into our present and future. These histories have deep influence at some places and such part of this city is Old Dhaka that’s teeming with history, heritage, pride and honour.
People in our country are not very familiar with Old Dhaka; in fact, its sphere is limited to a few famous historical establishments and the restaurants which got fame for both quality and social media promotions.
Old Dhaka is famous for both its historical heritage as well as food. Besides Biriyani and branded restaurants, the mesmerizing food scene is visible at every nook and cranny of this part of the city and no writing can do justice to it.
Recently famous Canadian food vlogger and the owner of YouTube channel ‘The Food Ranger’, Trevor James, visited Bangladesh and the first video on this trip featured the food of Old Dhaka. But it was not possible for him to explore the area thoroughly. Therefore, today’s topic on Journey will be about the street food of Nababganj Bazaar Road.One can reach this road via a few alleys from Lalbagh road or take a direct rickshaw to the end of Subal Das Lane. Walking is the best way to explore this food paradise.
It’s best to explore the food on this road after evening. The most variety of food is found in winter. However, there are many options for breakfast available in the morning. The best part about breakfast here is the Matha (fermented milk) and laddu made with pure curd. One can also sample non-branded tea leaves being sold at wholesale price. The sweet shops and bakarkhani stalls operate from morning as well. As the day progresses, biriyani and other lunch items get prepared in different restaurants.
The first stop on the right side from the end of Subal Das Lane is ‘Maa Shahi Halim’. Around 18 years back three brothers Harun, Siddikur and Ziaur opened this place which is now very popular around the nearby areas. Chicken, mutton and beef- all three types of meat are used to prepare halim here. Price starts from 35/- for half a bowl of chicken halim.
A little ahead of this place are a lot of tea stalls and restaurants selling fried items – available throughout the road. A unique place selling fried items can be spotted only at the end of afternoon, adjacent to the main entrance of Shaat Shahid Community Center. It has no roof or room. A fabric covers the top of the stall that is set against the wall of the community center. Low benches and plastic stools make sitting arrangement for the customers. Chaap, luchi, paratha, tikia, shikh kebab etc are constantly being fried on a large pan. Although, a bit too fried, the food tastes good here. Price is also reasonable.
This road has earned a name for sweets around nearby areas. There are many places here where homemade yogurt and ‘khissa’ are sold. Some of these shops are more than 100 years old e.g. Dilip Shah’s shop. Opened by his grandfather, his son and younger brother run the shop now after this death. On the other hand, one can have freshly made luchi with halwa for breakfast along with traditional sweets in the regular sweet shops.
Since afternoon many ‘pitha’ selling spots can be found on this road. Two of them are situated side by side, opposite of Nababganj Boro Masjid. These spots sell different varieties of pithas besides the regular bhapa and chitoi pithas. The price of these pithas starts from 5tk a piece.
The journey of Nababganj Bazaar Road will continue in the next article where yours truly will be sampling Biriyani and mouthwatering kebab!
Photographs: Sohelee Tahmina